Coeur-Joie (1946)

Coeur-Joie by Nina Ricci: launched in 1946. It was created by Germaine Cellier. Coeur Joie is a floral-aldehyde perfume, characterized as delicate and refined. Its composition includes absolute jasmine, absolute violet, Florence iris, Oriental rose, neroli, and acetivenol, creating a precious floral counterpoint within a full-bodied, original, and captivating fragrance. This perfume embodies the essence of a “truly feminine” woman, for whom distinction is inseparable from charm. Versatile in character, it is equally suitable for sporty daytime activities as well as elegant, dressed-up occasions.

Original Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a lush, powdery aldehydic floral fragrance for women. It was described as a delicately romantic green floral "which smells like an elegant hothouse" filled with lush jasmine and a "faint reflection of violets caught in a subtle blend" resting over a warm, woodsy base. 

• Top notes: aldehydes, lemon balm, bergamot, neroli, hyacinth
• Middle notes: gardenia, violet absolute, orange blossom, Oriental rose, jasmine absolute, Florentine ris
• Base notes: opoponax, musk, ambergris, orris butter, civet, vetiver, vetiveryl acetate (acetivenol), sandalwood

Coeur Joie was made up of at least 40 different ingredients and made use of the aromachemical acetivenol, a vetiver acetate, which provided the fragrance with a dry, earthy, woody, grassy note.

L'Atlantique, 1952:

"Nina Ricci, who in 1945, brought out what was probably the first handbag flask of perfume with her 'Coeur-Joie', has just brought out a new little flask with her latest success, 'Fille d'Eve,' in a beautiful Lalique bottle slipped into a holder of pleated organza. the same 'temptation' perfume is the base of the 'Daughter of Eve' toilet water just appeared this autumn."

Woman's guide to Europe, 1954:

"Nina Ricci, 22 Rue des Capucines. "Coeur Joie"— deliciously citrous; "Fille d'Eve"— exciting. Both come in Lalique flacons. "Douce" and "l'Air du Temps" — fresh and youthful." .

Perfume and flavor materials of natural origin, 1960:

"Perfumers will no doubt recall a French perfume of the late 1930's, put out by Nina Ricci and named "Coeur-Joie", which means "heart's delight". This perfume certainly had a melissa-like, fresh topnote and lightness of floral fragrance."

Cosmopolitan, 1962:

"Exhilarating, exciting with all the blithe spirit of Nina Ricci's famous perfume, L'Air du Temps! 1001 sprays in classic fluted white column with golden band. Nina Ricci Fragrance Sprays are also available in Coeur-Joie, Fille D'Eve and Capricci."

Mademoiselle, 1981:

"Nina Ricci’s L’Air du Temps and Coeur Joie (still available in France) are the only perfume bottles to be made in the Lalique factory for Nina Ricci after WW2. (Lalique on the bottom of, say, a post war Worth bottle simply means that the original design or mold was Lalique.) Which Riccis are best to collect? VP Marketing Director Freda Robinson points out that larger sizes have rarity going for them- the most extreme example being the 43-ounce bird flacon of L’Air du Temps Eau de Toilette at $1,350."

Bottles:

Coeur Joie was available in parfum, an eau de toilette known as Eau de Coeur Joie and in regular Eau de Toilette concentrations.

Deluxe Heart bottles:

These deluxe crystal bottles held parfum and were manufactured by Lalique. There are four sizes of the frosted glass heart motif bottles, manufactured by Lalique. All should be marked with "Bottle made by Lalique, France" and the 3 largest bottles are also signed "Coeur Joie" and "Nina Ricci". The older bottles have heart shaped openings in all of the bottle sizes, the newer bottles have more circular openings in the smaller bottles.

Bottle sizes:

• 2.7 oz bottle stands 6" tall 
• 1.5 oz bottle stands 4.75" tall
• 1 oz bottle stands 4" tall
• 0.5 oz bottle stands 3.5" tall

In its largest size, presented in its first-version embossed presentation box, this perfume bottle is made of clear and frosted crystal with a cubic cross-section. The body is shaped like an openwork, multi-lobed heart, decorated with reserved panels featuring floral motifs. It is topped with a half-moon–shaped stopper adorned with a raised butterfly in relief. The model was designed by Marc Lalique and is wheel-signed. Height: 15 cm.

Presented in its cubic presentation box made of cardboard covered in white satin, titled and illustrated after a design by Christian Bérard, with a satin-lined interior bearing the brand’s mark. The bottle is made of pressed-molded clear crystal, partially frosted, with a cubic cross-section. Its form is an openwork, multi-lobed heart, decorated with reserved floral motifs. It is topped with a cabochon stopper molded with a butterfly design and is sealed. The model was created by Marc Lalique and is signed. Height: 9 cm

Heart motif purse bottles:

These frosted glass heart motif laydown bottles were designed by Marc Lalique and also made by Lalique and held parfum. They have small screw caps on them and were housed in acetate boxes. The smallest (one heart), may not be made by Lalique but based on the Lalique design.

Bottle sizes:

• 4" long (four hearts)
• 3 1/8" long (three hearts)
• 2 1/4" long (two hearts)
• 1 1/2" long (one heart)

Parfum Splash Bottles:

These crystal bottles were also designed and made Lalique (though some bottles not marked by Lalique and were marked with the Jacqueline Cochran name are made by Pochet et du Courval based on the original Lalique designs) and have a bulbous shape with a graceful tapered neck. They will be fitted with octagonal crystal stoppers and have gold serigraphy across their bellies with the name of the perfume. These bottles debuted in 1968.

The bottle sizes:

• 4" tall (2 oz)
• 3 1/2" tall (1 oz)
• 2 1/2" tall (1/2 oz)
• 2" tall (1/6 oz) (screwcap)

Eau de Coeur Joie Splash Bottles:

These concentrated eau de toilette (Eau de Coeur Joie) and regular eau de toilette Lalique bottles are nearly identical to the splash flacons pictured above, except for the fact that these are not fitted with crystal stoppers, but rather gilded screw caps. These bottles debuted in 1968. 

Bottle sizes:

• 4" tall 

Disk Shaped Splash Bottles:

These bottles debuted in the 1950s and are found in both parfum and eau de toilette concentration. The bottles were manufactured by Lalique, the circular body has a scalloped design around the edges and a spherical glass stopper with the initials NR raised on the neck. These bottles were fitted with round paper labels. The Eau de Coeur Joie bottles were fitted with a gilded screw cap. 

Parfum Bottle sizes:

• 8.75" tall
• 5 1/8" tall  (6.8 oz), with screw cap
• 5" tall (3.3 oz) 
• 4 1/2" tall, parfum with oval shaped body, crystal stopper
• 4 1/4" tall (1 3/4 oz), parfum with crystal stopper
• 4" tall, parfum with crystal stopper
• 3 3/4" tall
• 3 1/4" tall (1 oz) parfum, with crystal stopper
• 3" tall (1/4 oz) 
• 2 5/8" tall (3/7 oz), parfum with crystal stopper
• 2 3/4" tall 

Eau de Coeur Joie Bottle sizes:

• 6 1/4" tall (6.8 oz), eau de toilette with crystal stopper
• 4 3/4" tall, eau de toilette with screw cap

Bath Oil bottles:

• 2 1/8" tall, bath oil with screw cap

In 1972/1973, Coeur Joie was available in the following formats:

• Parfum Presentations: "Coeur" crystal bottles signed Lalique. Various sizes were offered; also available in atomizers for the handbag.
• Related Products: Eau de Toilette (4 sizes)
• Ancillary Products: perfumed bath foam.

In 1977/1978, Coeur Joie was available in the following formats:

• Parfum Presentations: "Coeur" crystal bottles signed Lalique. Various sizes were offered; also available in atomizers for the handbag.
• Related Products: Eau de Toilette (3 sizes); Eau de Toilette Atomizers (4 oz deluxe)
• Ancillary Products: perfumed bath foam.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Despite the high quality of the Nina Ricci perfumes, four fragrances were unsuccessful in the American market (Coeur Joie, Capricci, Farouche and Fleurs de Fleurs), yet, they are successful in Europe. Why? Because most American women prefer stronger fragrances rather than the light, flowery scents enjoyed by European women. Furthermore, European women believe femininity is enhanced by a perfume, and they place more importance on the decorative crystal bottles and packaging than American women do. “ The French image of perfume is very romantic, feminine and sophisticated,” says Lina Vitali, vice president of Parfums Nina Ricci, USA in 1989. “The American perfume’s image is more aggressive, sexual and overpowering.”

It was still available in 1992 as it was advertised in an issue of Lear's magazine.

Though very hard to find, it is still being sold today. You can purchase the 15ml Lalique flacon of parfum at www.ninaricci.com